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Monk fish in tomatoes and bell pepper Sauce

Simple but very effective (I.e. delicious) recipe. Try not to settle into buying the frozen fish, it will kill the dish. always buy fresh one,  otherwise I don’t have anything to add (just for the sake of Google robots), other then… as my apron say ‘just do it’.

Just do it

Ingredients:

77g Pancetta.

4 Big tomatoes, quartered.

3 Medium onions, sliced.

2 Bell peppers, red and green, cut to stripes.

1½ teaspoon sweet paprika.

250ml chicken stock.

3 Tablespoon capers.

2 Descent size monk fish, de boned, clean and each cut in to two along the spine.

Salt and pepper.

Preparation: 

Pre heat the oven to 180 degrees C.

Rub the monk fish all over  with half of the paprika and set aside.

Begin by gently fry the pancetta in heavy skillet. Just before golden add the peppers and continue to fry until the peppers start to burn.  Add the onions and sauté them until the onions become transparent and slightly soft.

Add the tomatoes and keep frying on medium heat. When the tomatoes starting to falling apart add the stock,  the remain of the paprika and the capers. Gently mix, bring to boil. Turn down the heat.

Add the fish into the skillet, making sure the fish is bury in the sauce. Bring back to gentle boil.

Cover the pan, remove from the fire and bake in the oven for twenty two minutes.

Bon appetite.

Ronen

 

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Turn your drill press to lathe.

I really need to call it ‘How to shape a Bollocks Dagger wooden handle.

A while back a man name Tim, took my one and a half days knife making course.

It turn out that he is a enthusiast  archer. He told me about a particular knife that the midlevel English archer use to wear. It is the Bollocks Dagger. Bollocks dagger He told me that he really want to build a dagger like that and I told him ‘well, come to do another course’.

It also turn out that he own a nice restaurant in Falmouth UK, the Provedore.  http://www.provedore.co.uk/

Now.. my wife Tamsin add a birthday and I thought I can kill three birds in one go. First, I can take Tamsin for a meal on her birthday. Second I can built Tim the knife that he keep saying he want to have, and thirdly I can exchange the dagger for the meal (although it’s fair to say that Tim don’t know about that deal yet).

So I set to build the knife. After forging and finishing  the blade I was ready to build  the handle.

I use a block of oak that I add for many years. The design asked for some section of the handle  to be completely round.  Bollocks Dagger  From my experience I knew it is difficult to do it by hand. So I needed a lath machine.

And here it come..

I decided to use my drill press as a lath, and for that I needed to build a implement that will use as a chuck to hold the block of wood in the drill. It wasn’t only the chuck head, I also needed to build something to hold the bottom side of the block.

Basically the handle comprising  three sections, a big chunk of wood on one side,  to be the guard  in the form of testicles (hence the dagger name), middle handle shaft, and the pommel end. That present opportunity for the shape of the chuck like devise, that I will build. It will be a box shape that can hold the chunky bit of the wooden block. Turn your drill press to lathe

I drill four holes on all four side of the box and thread them to take a bolt screw. The screw is to tighten and lock the wood block to the ‘chuck’ box. I weld a short steel shaft to the box to enable me to attached it to the drill chuck.

I pre drill the wooden block from side to side. That will be for attaching it to the blade.

To insure that handle hole is dead centre with the drill chuck, I  drill and thread a hole in the centre of  the box from the inside, and screw a hardened pin in to it. Turn your drill press to lathe

I took a 10mm piece of steel, drill two holes in both side to enable me to attached it to the drill press table, and I also attached hardened pin in the middle of it. later on after attaching the wood block into the chuck box Turn your drill press to lathe

and into the drill, the pin at the bottom will serve as pivot axel to ensure that the block will stay put in the milling process.

Prior to the action on the drill, I roughly cut the wooden block to the size of the handle (see main photo). That is to help in the initial shaping of the handle. Is that the firs action when the wood is still big chunk is too hard on the drill as it is not really a lathe machine.

After you shape the round section of the handle remove it from chuck and finish shaping the guard end, manually.  Turn your drill press to latheTurn your drill press to lathe

And here you have it.

Turn your drill press to lathe

I am sorry it is a messy post but, hey, it’s thrdyslexiccraftsman.com as you know.

 

 

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Belt sander tip and trick

Today post  going to be short but, I feel oblige to my devoted followers (I wander where are they and if it say something about my blog?).

When I started to work on my newly build belt sander I order from a laser cutting company, some blank blades. Some was made of O1 still and some were plane low carbon steel. I intended to use the plane steel for practicing on the sander before I go to use the real knives O1 steel.

That arrangement work well, but then I realised that due to problematic craftsmanship (later discover as just wrong table rest adjustment) I have got slight deferent knife bevel geometry on both sides, i.e. left and right side wasn’t symmetrically shaped.

After adjusting the table rest the result was better but not as good as I wanted. I then realised that I holding the blade in deferent position, between left side and right side.

To remedy that, I needed to explore my action on the sander and lots of practice. To do that I use the plane steel blanks. Unfortunately they run quickly. That was a problem. To order new ones will take time and money. So I decided to… and here is the tip and trick, to cut a lots of wooden blanks, paint them and use them as practice dummies.

As I do more than one knife model, I cut few deferent knife profiles to resembles my knives, and then paint them. Obviously it is not important to give the blanks a proper bevel nor the thickness of the blades is important. Belt sander tip and trick

And here some of the used ones. Belt sander tip and trick

As a tip bonus I will say that while I was practicing, I come up with a solution to a problem that I encounter when I try to shape the bevel of some of my models.

You can see that the knife cutting edge starting away from the beginning of the knife bevel. Also some time you want  the beginning of the bevel to align with the starting point of the cutting edge, as in the second photo.

Handmade knifeHandnmade knife

So my trick is in both cases, to leave some of the knife profile unfinished. Belt sander tip and trick

Form the bevel and then finish grinding the blade profile. See samples 1 and 6 in the photo above, above, above.

That all for now. I hope you enjoyed it

Ronen

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Roast bell pepper and broad bean in Tahini sauce.

Very simple but surprisingly tasty recipe for Roast bell pepper and broad bean in Tahini sauce.

There is no much point to bang on about it for the sake of Google, so we get straight to business.

Just one last thing. As usual at this time of the year, we have plenty of vegetables grow in our garden.

SaladSalad

 

 

 

 

 

Ingredient:

For the vegetables:

3 Bell peppers in different colour, clean from the seeds and sliced to medium size strips.

½ Cup podded broad beans.

Handful yang brad beans, ends trim. If you can’t get yang beans, than add another cupful of podded broad beans.

1 teaspoon coriander powder.

Salt and pepper.

Olive oil.

For the Tahini sauce:

¾ cup row Tahini.

Juice of one big lemon.

Juice from pitted green olives  brine.

Handful finely chopped parsley.

1 Crushed garlic.

Salt and Pepper.

 

Preparation:

First make the Tahini sauce. Pour the row Tahini into a bowl, add the parsley, garlic and seasoning.

Add few tablespoon of the olive brine and mix, gradually add more until you got the Thaini to a consistency of double cream. At this stage add the lemon juice and mix well. By now the Tahini need to be runny as single cream. Set aside.

Add four (or there about) tablespoon olive oil into heavy skillet. Fry the pepper and the broad beans ( if you have them) until started to be golden than add the podded beans and keep fry the vegetables few more minutes until the podded beans started the brown.

Turn off the heat, set aside until cold. Add the Tahini sauce, gently mix, adjust the seasoning and here you have it.

Bon appétit

Ronen

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Marking the centre line of a knife edge

Hi to all my followers :).

The post is actually need to be called:

Marking the centre line of a knife edge prior to establishing the bevel.

It’s been some time now that I wanted to post a little trick about how I improved my method of marking the blank blade edge prior to grinding the bevel.

The original trick was to improve a known technique (the one that using a drill bit inscribing against the edge of the knife to mark the centre line) . the old technique was working well but, it is nuisance on your fingers and a lot of time the centre line turn to be crooked.

So my ‘brilliant’ idea was simply to clamp it to the base surface, to avoid the needs of using my fingers to hold the drill bit (you may say Dhaa.. and rightly so). For me however it was enlightenment and it worked. Knife edge center line marking

The thing is, that it is not the best technique out there and there are lot of ingenious gadgets that one can see on the internet.

But then I had a divine revelation. For some reason (which I won’t bore you with), I accumulated a lot of discarded unfinished blades. Most of my knives are either 4 or 5mm in thickness. Its mean that I use 4 or 5mm drill bit for marking the centre line.

And here is the thing.

Way not taking the tang bit of a blade, and use it for marking? It is flat, it is exactly the thickness that I need and it is harden able steel.  Marking knife edeg

So all I had to do is take one 4mm peace of steel and one 5mm peace. Grind one end to give it a 45 degrees edge and give it a proper heat treatment. As I want it hard as possible I didn’t bother with tempering.

Marking knife edgeMarking  knife edge

Now we talking. It is flat so it didn’t wiggled while scribing and do as good job as any high tech gadget out there. knife edge center line marking

It is not important to establish precise symmetrical hedge.   If it’s not symmetrical, inscribed one line on one side, then flip the blade over and inscribed another line on the reversal side of  the blade.  You will get a double line that marking the centre. Marking the edge of a knife

That is good, as you anyway want to leave some thickness to the cutting edge of the blade, for the heat treatment process . If the double line are too wide, then you can always grind a little bit more to close the gap.

That it.

 

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