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Marking the centre line of a knife edge

Hi to all my followers :).

The post is actually need to be called:

Marking the centre line of a knife edge prior to establishing the bevel.

It’s been some time now that I wanted to post a little trick about how I improved my method of marking the blank blade edge prior to grinding the bevel.

The original trick was to improve a known technique (the one that using a drill bit inscribing against the edge of the knife to mark the centre line) . the old technique was working well but, it is nuisance on your fingers and a lot of time the centre line turn to be crooked.

So my ‘brilliant’ idea was simply to clamp it to the base surface, to avoid the needs of using my fingers to hold the drill bit (you may say Dhaa.. and rightly so). For me however it was enlightenment and it worked. Knife edge center line marking

The thing is, that it is not the best technique out there and there are lot of ingenious gadgets that one can see on the internet.

But then I had a divine revelation. For some reason (which I won’t bore you with), I accumulated a lot of discarded unfinished blades. Most of my knives are either 4 or 5mm in thickness. Its mean that I use 4 or 5mm drill bit for marking the centre line.

And here is the thing.

Way not taking the tang bit of a blade, and use it for marking? It is flat, it is exactly the thickness that I need and it is harden able steel.  Marking knife edeg

So all I had to do is take one 4mm peace of steel and one 5mm peace. Grind one end to give it a 45 degrees edge and give it a proper heat treatment. As I want it hard as possible I didn’t bother with tempering.

Marking knife edgeMarking  knife edge

Now we talking. It is flat so it didn’t wiggled while scribing and do as good job as any high tech gadget out there. knife edge center line marking

It is not important to establish precise symmetrical hedge.   If it’s not symmetrical, inscribed one line on one side, then flip the blade over and inscribed another line on the reversal side of  the blade.  You will get a double line that marking the centre. Marking the edge of a knife

That is good, as you anyway want to leave some thickness to the cutting edge of the blade, for the heat treatment process . If the double line are too wide, then you can always grind a little bit more to close the gap.

That it.

 

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How to make Mosaic pins for your knives

How I make my mosaic pins

As always I do try to: One save money, by do it myself and Two learn how to do it.

So this post is all about I  built my mosaic pins, to decorating my knife.

The way I construct my hidden  tang knives is always (nearly) to mechanically secure the blade tang to the knife handle with a pin. I know modern epoxy are strong enough but I just like  the extra security.

I did try to built the mosaic pin directly on to the handle with the ‘security’ pin as integral part of it. it worked okay but I found it bit cumbersome technique, and I restricted to the  ‘security’ pin  always be  in the middle.

This days I use a different method. I build the mosaic pin in advance and use whatever materials I have. Then I use it to decorate the knife. In this method  I still have my  ‘security’ pin in the handle but it is hidden. The way I do it is like that: Mosaic pinNow for the subject of this post:  How do I build my mosaic pins.

First of all let me say that to use deferent metal pins is not the best practice, as deferent metals that been in contact with one another can cause the metals to corrode. You can read about it in:

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Corrosion.pdf

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

For this post pin  I used: aluminium tube and brass roods in various diameters.   I believe that the glue is creating a insulation between the deferent metal  element, and my knife will spare the corrosion effect. I didn’t show it on the illustration, but I always roughen up (with a thin saw blade), the deep end of the rods to allow the glue a better grip.

How to make mosaic pins

I use a heat resistant epoxy,  as when sanding the pin to flush with the rest of the handle, a lot of heat can be created . That in turn can compromised the integrity of the glue. Also, If you use a clear epoxy, you can add some colour pigment to it, then you will have a coloured surface for t he pin.

Mosaic pins for knivesMosaic pins for knivesI let it to dry and then glue it to the handle. Needless to say that I already glue the ‘security’ pin  inside the handle.  Knive's Mosaic pinsMosaic pinsWhen the glue is dry, I saw the excess length of the pin,  then give the entire handle a rough sanding.  Mosaic pins for kinves I then finish the handle (as they all do) by sanding it with progressive finer grit size sanding papers. Mosai pins for kinvesFinally I finish it with buffing.  I using masking tape to mask the wood from the metal pin and vice versa (the white tape on the handle is for something else) , as if you do the buffing  all in one go, the wood can be tarnished from the metal buffing residue.

That all, have fan, and  don’t be afraid to leave comment (positive) on my blog.

Ronen

 

 

 

 

 

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Meatballs stew with white vegetables (mainly).

It been a while since I post something. Well it was due to me visit my parents in Israel and on the way I want with my two brothers, their children and friends to spend some very good time in the desert, celebrating the Mid Burn festival.

One child is messing.
Here she is.

To relate the event to today post, here is our kitchen. As you can imagine, we didn’t cooked that much and we survived mainly on snacks.  But.. we did serve the crowd a lot of coffee.

 

Shay in action in camp winners kitchen.
My friend Mahmud coffee kettle.

Anyway, I give you the recipe without too much talking but, to say it was invented  yesterday and it was good. You may consider to thicken up the sauce in the end by mixing bit of roux in to it.

Meatballs stew with white vegetables (mainly).

Ingredients:

1.2kg minced meat.

1 Celeriac head sliced to eight wedges.

½ white cubage roughly sliced.

1Lt beef stock.

2 sliced onions.

1 Chopped onion.

1 Cup chopped coriander.

Olive oil.

2 Tablespoon paprika.

1 Tablespoon ‘Baharat’ (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baharat).

Salt & pepper.

Preparation:

Mix the minced meat with the coriander, the chopped onion and the spices. Let rest in the fridge for some time.

Make around twenty meat balls, slightly press them down. Lay baking paper on a baking tin and put the meatballs on top.

Bake in pre heated oven for 15 minutes on 200 degrees C. Just to make the firm.

Meanwhile, sauté the onion in heavy stewing pan. After  seven minutes add the rest of the vegetables, and mix to cover them in the oil. Continuo to sauté’ for eight more minutes.

Add the stock and bring to boil. Lower the heat and keep it simmering.

Take out the meatballs from the oven (providing you wait the fifteen minutes). You can add the liquid from the meat to the simmering stock now, or keep it for the roux.

Put the meatballs in the stock and make sure they are all cover (more or less) in the liquid). It is okay to let the vegetables to be on the top. Add more stock if needed.

Lower the oven temperature to 180 C,  cover the pan and bake for at least thirty minutes.

Take it out and beef up the stock using the roux (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roux).

That it. I hope you will enjoy it.

Ronen (or dad, if my children will read it by any chance).

 

 

 

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How to build a bush craft knife, part 3.

Better then Ray Mear’s bush crafts knife.

I finished the last post by gluing and fixing  the handle materials to the blades. So today post will continuo from there (obviously).

I do the rough shaping on my belt sander using the 60 and 80 grit belts, then I use drums with progressive finer grit size, and length of send paper to finish the polishing process. To achieve smooth handle finish, It is important that the drums diameter match the correct curvature of the handle (see cover photo).Hand made bush crafts knifeHandmade bush crafts knife

 

 

 

 

At the same time I grind the brass bolt at the top, making it flush with the wood. Don’t grind the bolt all in one go. Do it in slow belt revolution in few time, making sure it is not become too hot.

If the brass allow to be hot, it will co premise the integrity of the glue. Handmade bush crafts knife

I cover the leather part of the handle and the blade with electric tape, then paint the wood part with clear Linseed oil. Let it dry for few days and repaint it. the longer you let it dry the better. hand made budh crafts knife

I now cover the wood parts with electric tape and using bees wax I buff the leather bit. I do it long enough for it to shine. At the same time I also lightly buff the blade.

I now hatch my name / logo onto the knives blades. I clean the blades with acetone and paint the blade part where I want the logo to be with thin layer of nail varnish and let it dry. I surround the splodge of varnish with electric tape on four sides. Bush crafts knife

I asked my wife Tamsin to scribed my name on the varnish. I mix whatever amount of salt that I managed to hold between my two finger with four tablespoon of water. Drop some of the solution  on the scribed logo (using syringe). I attached the positive end of 9v battery to the blade.   Bush crafts knife 

Then I deep a  cotton  swab into the salt solution, attached it to the positive end of the battery and lightly touch the blade just above the logo. I left it there for one and half minutes and stop the process. If you let it for more than that, the solution may become too hot, the varnish will melt and the logo will ruined.  Clean the blade with acetone.

The last thing to do is to sharpen the knives.

I know it is better (probably) to do it by hand on the belt sander, either free hand or using jig. I don’t have (yet) the experience to do it free hand and I didn’t have the time to built a holding jig, so I used Lansky sharpener . It is not the best tool in the world but it did the trick (in a way). It is probably design for small blade rather for large ones. Bush crafts knife

If all worked well (and for me it was) you end up with eleven very nice knives. Bush crafts knife

Now for the sheath:

Hhh, that is for next post.

Let me just say that the next post will be in few week time, as I am away to the desert to take part in the Mid Burn event in Israel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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How to build a bush craft knife, part 2.

Better then Ray Mears’s bush crafts knife.

I end last post with soldering the 4mm threaded rod to the knife tang. Today I will continue with making all the components for the handle,  how to fix it to the blade and how to finish the knife.

 I asked my acquaintance Mr Clive Freeman to drill 3.2mm hole through the middle of the brass rod, than I cut it into 10mm length segments.  I use 4mm tap to thread it into a nut, than I cut a narrow slot at the top of it, that will help to screw it to the tang. Bushcrafts knifeShaping  the wooden guards and the butt cap.

The guard have a compound shape, so to built it was partly like sculpturing. I use elliptical shape router bit on  my drill press,  to cut the wood for the guards in one direction. Home made knifeThen I traced the overall shape of the guards on to the wood, cut it on band saw  and by used a disc sander to form it into oval shape.  Bush crafts knife

The top side  and the bottom side of the guard are not the same size. I marked the bottom side, and again shaped it on the disc sander.

I clump it on the vice using (yet another) jig, and finish shape the top part of the guard.  I drill 4mm hole through the middle of the guard  and shape it to precisely fit the knife tang. Bush crafts knifeNext is the shaping of the wooden part of the opposite side of the handle, the butt cap . That was altogether easier, the part is symmetrical all around and I shaped it using my drill press as improvised lathe. Making knife handleI cut  leather sheet into 30x35mm rectangular pieces. I also cut the coloured plastic spacers into about the same size as the leather.

Now that I have all the various component of the knives handles, it’s time to glue it. Bush crafts knifeClean all the knife parts, blade and handle with acetone.  Clump the blade in a vice, point side down.

Prepare the glue. Apply some glue on the tang near the blade shoulders, and start to slide the handle materials on to the tang, one after the other, apply the glue as you progress.  Make sure that everything is strait and bolt it tight  with the brass nut that you prepared earlier.

The nut should protrude enough above the handle, to allow you to grind it flush with top of the handle,  without seeing the pre cut notch at the top of the brass nut.

After repeat the above  eleven times   I end up with these.

Bush crafts knives

Well that post become too long and I need to go and cook diner for my family, so I will do another post in few days time.

I am sorry if that post is to some degree massy. it was written in a rush.

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