Today post going to be short but, I feel oblige to my devoted followers (I wander where are they and if it say something about my blog?).
When I started to work on my newly build belt sander I order from a laser cutting company, some blank blades. Some was made of O1 still and some were plane low carbon steel. I intended to use the plane steel for practicing on the sander before I go to use the real knives O1 steel.
That arrangement work well, but then I realised that due to problematic craftsmanship (later discover as just wrong table rest adjustment) I have got slight deferent knife bevel geometry on both sides, i.e. left and right side wasn’t symmetrically shaped.
After adjusting the table rest the result was better but not as good as I wanted. I then realised that I holding the blade in deferent position, between left side and right side.
To remedy that, I needed to explore my action on the sander and lots of practice. To do that I use the plane steel blanks. Unfortunately they run quickly. That was a problem. To order new ones will take time and money. So I decided to… and here is the tip and trick, to cut a lots of wooden blanks, paint them and use them as practice dummies.
As I do more than one knife model, I cut few deferent knife profiles to resembles my knives, and then paint them. Obviously it is not important to give the blanks a proper bevel nor the thickness of the blades is important.
As a tip bonus I will say that while I was practicing, I come up with a solution to a problem that I encounter when I try to shape the bevel of some of my models.
You can see that the knife cutting edge starting away from the beginning of the knife bevel. Also some time you want the beginning of the bevel to align with the starting point of the cutting edge, as in the second photo.
Form the bevel and then finish grinding the blade profile. See samples 1 and 6 in the photo above, above, above.
That all for now. I hope you enjoyed it
RonenShare this post